(Not so) Similar tastes:

Originating from Samosir regency in North Sumatra, naniura features fresh carp as its main ingredient. The restaurant Nusa Indonesian Gastronomy in Jakarta’s Kemang area is known to serve naniura. Nusa’s chef de cuisine, Andi Sinrang, told the Post that the original Samosir version of naniura uses red carp that is only available at Lake Toba. Nusa, however, uses carp obtained from a fish farm in Jakarta, while kaffir lime and andaliman pepper for the seasoning are sourced from North Sumatra. Nusa presents a whole fresh carp covered in herbs and spices to depict the classic version of naniura, while its contemporary take on the dish shows the carp diced and arranged neatly with herbs and seasoning sauce in a small glass. Naniura is often likened to the Latin American ceviche or Japan’s sashimi.

Jakarta’s own style of soto makes coconut milk a key part of the aromatic Indonesian soup, together with diced beef or cow’s innards. The seasoning includes nutmeg, cloves, shallots and candlenut. The Dharmawangsa Jakarta’s executive sous-chef de cuisine, Emmanuel Julio, presents a vibrant classic look of soto betawi, with melinjo (bitternut) crackers, crispy fried shallot, potatoes, potato fritters and finely chopped tomato. Meanwhile, his contemporary take on the soto is no less vibrant, with a richer tone of red from medium-well done tenderloin to substitute the braised beef in the classic version. The potato element in the contemporary version is represented by potato chips, and one whole heirloom tomato substitutes the classic, finely chopped version. Edible flowers are also used to top off the contemporary soto betawi.

Although less widely known than its fellow native Jakartan dish soto betawi, sayur bebanci is a soup dish that Nusa Indonesian Gastronomy is proud of. Originally served for special occasions among Betawi families, sayur bebanci features braised beef, young coconut meat, coconut milk, young sugarcane that is known as trubuk, long beans and bird’s eye chili. The classic presentation of this soup puts together all the ingredients, often drowned in the soup. Nusa’s contemporary take on the dish, however, uses a small portion of beef brisket. The long beans, young coconut meat and baby sugarcane are arranged neatly together with the rich coconut milk-infused broth that has been reduced to some sauce.

This native Jakartan-style vegetable salad with peanut sauce is also a crowd-pleasing snack, especially with its diced tofu and vibrant yellow crackers that go really well with the sauce. What makes the salad special is that the vegetables, for instance lettuce and beansprouts, are marinated with salt and vinegar beforehand. The Dharmawangsa Jakarta, successfully replicating street-style asinan betawi, creates a sushi-like contemporary version of the salad. All vegetables are finely chopped and wrapped with peanut sauce gel. Ground nuts are arranged in bits, and so are the yellow crackers, the latter placed on top of the sushi.

There are many ways to savor West Sumatran beef rendang, dubbed one of the world’s most delicious dishes. The Dharmawangsa Jakarta chose to fit about a spoonful of beef rendang into a risolle, a Portuguese-style pastry that has long been adapted into Indonesia’s culinary wealth. This beef rendang risolle, the filling of which includes finely diced carrots, beans and boiled egg, should become a lighter, more practical way to savor the famed beef dish, compared to its classic presentation as part of a main course served with rice.

This traditional sweet snack is made of steamed cassava mixed with grated coconut, sugar and salt. The steamed cassava could be mashed using a meat mincer and is served with grated coconut. The executive pastry chef of The Dharmawangsa Jakarta, I Made Kona, creates a more contemporary version of getuk lindri. The dough is finer, shinier and served bite-sized on top of biscuit with a rather strong hint of butter.

The glutinous green balls, covered in shredded coconut, are a treat for the sweet tooth, with the palm sugar sauce inside, bursting in the mouth upon the first bite. Traditionally, klepon is made of sticky rice flour kneaded with pandan, water and a little bit of salt, and then filled with palm sugar and shaped into small balls. The little balls are then boiled, cooled and rolled in coconut grates. For those who wish to taste the contemporary version of klepon, Nusa Indonesian Gastronomy is the place. However, you would need to request the menu in advance. Mukhamad Solihin, corporate pastry chef of Nusa, creates a soft green mousse made of coconut milk, pandan and suji leaves, filled with palm sugar. The chewy texture is contributed by the sponges at the side, made of local sorghum flour. Coconut elements are also represented by coconut water jelly, and last but not least, coconut gelato.

Popular as a menu for breaking the fast in Ramadan in Jakarta, bubur kampiun originates from West Sumatra. The dish comprises porridge made of rice flour, black sticky rice porridge with coconut milk, tapioca pearls and sweet potato balls. The composition of these elements, bound together with palm sugar syrup, can be varied. Nusa Gastronomy’s contemporary version of bubur kampiun puts a refined version of the sweet potato balls in the middle, looking like a yellow pudding labyrinth. The hearty rice flour porridge takes the shape of foam, lending a lighter taste and feel. There is also the mini version of sweet potato balls, tapioca pearls and black sticky rice porridge.